John Yao, the Taiwanese American chef behind Kato, who held the Michelin star in the Arts District, took home one of the top awards at the James Beard Foundation Awards. The annual (almost) awards ceremony, held in Chicago, is widely understood as an Oscar for the (American) Food World, recognising the excellence of restaurants, bars and food media, including books, broadcast media and journalism.
In 2016, Yao first opened Kato inside the West Russtrip Mall, and in 2022 moved the restaurant to the Arts District. Soon, the staged restaurants of the time attracted critics’ attention, targeting Asian American spins in fine dining restaurants. Over the years, the self-taught chef has honed his craft and has grown into one of the best restaurants in the city, at least if you ask me. In 2022, Kato won his first Michelin star. Last year, the restaurant was named “see one” by the 50 best restaurant organizations in the world, but this has not yet named LA’s eateries on its prestigious annual list.
Photo: Courtesy Jeni Afusothe dining at at kato.
In his acceptance speech, Yao thanked his past and present staff and acknowledged the ongoing immigrant raids taking place throughout Los Angeles and the country. “LA is a city built by the hardships of immigrant communities, and now the same community is torn apart,” he said.
“As immigrant children, I’m sure I can imagine a scenario where many people here couldn’t come here to celebrate this together,” Yao continued. “But we all deserve freedom to pursue our dreams, determine our future, be treated with equal dignity and respect, and tonight, everyone in this room has the ability and voice to amplify that message through their own stories in their community.
“The restaurant and the food we offer [at Kato]it’s really a medium of storytelling. This represents many immigrant stories,” Yao explains his point further in a behind-the-scenes interview. It’s not just us. We are extremely proud to be part of that fabric. ”
Just like last year, only one LA restaurant or bar won the national James Beard Award. In the spring, five other local restaurants, bars, bakeries and writers were nominated for various awards. He is the charming bread from Long Beach’s “outstanding bakery” and the “outstanding cocktail expert” bar director, Bar Director at Redbirds in Downtown Los Angeles. Toni Ti Pton Martin, a LA native, historian, author of Cookbook and former Los Angeles Times food writer, received the Foundation’s Lifetime Achievement Award for decades of work to bring black foodways to the forefront of American culinary conversations and elevate early caregiver food writers.
While local food publications were not recognized at another Media Awards ceremony held over the weekend, three other LA-based writers also won the Media Awards. On Saturday, new LA-based writer and native Angele No Gördinier won the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award for “The City That City Buritment” in “RiceBuild,” featuring Charleston and South Carolina, South Carolina, along with artist and fellow co-author George McCarman. Two LA-based authors, Andrea Freeman and Nicola Tuilly, also won the award for ruining crops on the ground. American Food Politics, From Tears Road to School Lunch and Flossbite: The Way of Fross: The Way of Each and That Frozen Changed Our Food, The Earth, and Weself.
However, when it comes to recognition on the James Beard Foundation’s Culinary Front, Kato’s show, located at the tasting menu spot here in the Arts District of Layao, is already a popular destination among wealthy and knowledgeable LA diners and fan dining fans, but booking most days of the week was an incredibly easy booking. That’s at least up until now. If you haven’t booked a table in Kato yet, now might be a good time to do it – before everyone else does.
Are you interested in what to expect from a meal in Kato? Read our full starred review to find out more.
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